Sustainable shopping has become very popular in the last few years. Buying used clothing from thrift stores and other second-hand resellers is more common than ever. From 2021 to 2023, the used apparel market will increase from $138 billion to $211 billion, and by 2027 it is expected to reach $351 billion. From stores like Goodwill and Plato's Closet to apps like Depop, Poshmark, and eBay, second-hand and “vintage” purchases are happening. Dressing has become a very common custom and has become even more popular in recent times.
This new alternative to buying from big fast fashion companies is actually a great habit that more people should practice. However, some people abuse the act of reselling used and vintage clothing, many of them taking advantage of people's hobby of buying vintage items.
I understand that the purpose of selling or reselling something is to make some kind of profit, but there is no excuse to give the customer an immediate profit. I've noticed a pattern of resellers labeling items as “vintage” so they can list them at higher prices. Many of the Depop subreddits are also starting to realize this. One commenter on the Reddit post said, “Many sellers are selling ripped Carhartt pants for $90 and telling people they're from the 90s, mostly vintage items, and are scamming people in a big way. “I am claiming that it is.''
When I went to a local thrift store or bag department myself, I have heard people say things like, “This will sell for a lot of money'' when they see some fancy old clothes. Labeling old clothing and accessories as “vintage” just to be able to sell them for a higher price is unfortunately a common practice, and one I often see.
There is a difference between old and vintage, but the definitions of these terms are fairly loose and subjective. Although it often depends on the fashion of the era, certain characteristics can make something more “vintage” than just an old piece of clothing. Age is one of the determining factors in whether something is considered vintage, but it goes into a little more detail. Vintage usually refers to items that are more than 20 years old but less than 100 years old. At this point, it is technically considered an antique. According to the Cambridge Dictionary, vintage means “something produced in the past and typical of the period in which it was made.” It is also “something of high quality and lasting value, or exhibiting the best and most typical characteristics of a particular kind of thing.”
Another determining factor in whether something is classified as vintage is quality. Some clothing and materials last much longer than others. Decades ago, mass production was less common, and many luxury items actually included more hand-stitching. This is one of the many reasons why some vintage pieces last so long and increase in price over time. However, this obvious attribute of “vintage” clothing does not stop resellers from selling inferior quality products for the same price as long-lasting products.
One example is the vintage Chanel 2.55 handbag. First released in 1929 and reintroduced in 1955, this bag was made from the finest leather and metal. Many of the stitching and finishing details are done by hand by skilled craftsmen. Previously, he also used 24-carat gold-plated hardware, but this was discontinued in 2008. The quality of vintage Chanel bags and modern Chanel bags differ in their longevity. That's why vintage bags are so sought after and can even increase in value. over time. Chanel has always been a very popular and respected brand in the fashion world. When we hear the name Chanel, we think of tweed suits and little black dresses. These were very iconic of his 90s.
There are now many resellers selling imitations of these iconic vintage pieces at high prices as if they were the real thing. As the purchase of second-hand goods, especially second-hand luxury goods, increases, the sale of counterfeit goods also begins to increase. Without proper certification, it is very easy to pass fake products as if they were the real thing, price them accordingly, and deceive countless customers looking to shop more sustainably and save money.
Authentic vintage luxury goods tend to be expensive anyway, even if they are already discounted. Regular vintage brands and items tend to be much more affordable to the everyday consumer. At least, that's how it should be. There's no reason why a regular shirt, skirt, etc. from 20 years ago would cost about the same as something you could buy at Urban's Outfitters today. This defeats the whole point of thrifting and buying second-hand.
Vintage does not only refer to luxury items. But classifying everything as such just because the word has value is very deceptive. Quality and age are just some of the characteristics used to determine whether something is classified as vintage. Those aren't the only factors. His 1991 American Cancer Society Labor Day 5k shirt, found at a bag sale, is of good quality and clearly quite old. However, that doesn't classify the shirt as vintage. It's a cool shirt, but in no way represents his 90's fashion or style. And I wouldn't pay more than $10 or $15 for it.
There is clearly a difference between a plain old shirt labeled “vintage” and actual vintage clothing. Knowing these slight differences can help you avoid being fooled. However, of course, not all resellers are malicious. You may also just be misinformed about what “vintage” really is. Knowing this can also be helpful if you specifically want to collect a certain piece or item.
Kelly Xiong writes about all things fashion, beauty, personal health, and occasionally pop culture. You can write to her at jux13@pitt.edu.
