Food writer Khushbu Shah's new cookbook, Amrikan (pronounced “um-ree-kan”), is a creative and entirely original look at the foods and cuisines of the Indian-American diaspora.
In the book's introduction, Shah writes that adaptation is a “primary ingredient in the Indian-American culinary lexicon,” explaining that “the limited availability of staple Indian ingredients (such as khoya and mawa in the iconic dessert gulab jamun) has led to clever adaptations among Indian cooks in America, like Bisquick in the case of gulab jamun, mentioned above.”
Shah details her mother's transformation of cream of wheat into upma and how she first realised that peanut butter was “an easy substitute for the specific peanuts needed to make coriander-lime chutney. Its versatility makes it one of my all-time favourite condiments.”
However, she points out that “adaptation is not a one-way relationship where Indian food is simply adjusted to suit American ingredients,” and argues that “many Indians living in the United States also adapt American food with Indian flavors and spices to make it more delicious.”
“These are immigrant recipes, dishes that stay connected to home and stay wholesome,” Shah continues. And I think that sums up the whole spirit of the book. Shah also talks about patterns of immigration and how that has shaped Indian cuisine in America, and her family's history of moving from Ahmedabad to Syracuse and Detroit.
Unfortunately, Shah points out, “while Chinese food has become a staple of shopping mall food courts, Japanese food is sold in run-of-the-mill supermarkets across the country, and Mexican dishes like burritos and tacos have become as American as chicken nuggets and grilled cheese sandwiches, Indian food has yet to enter the American culinary lexicon, save for British curry house staples like butter chicken, samosas and masala chai.” But ideally, “Amrikan” could be the start of a change that signals things to come.
Also, here's my own experience: A few weeks ago I made a butter chicken pizza and a mango pie for my girlfriend. I couldn't find any mango pulp so I went with passion fruit, one of my favorite flavors, and both were absolutely delicious, everyone I shared a taste with agreed.
SalonFood spoke with Shah further to hear more about the conversation, highlight key ingredients and dishes, expound on the virtues of the oft-maligned freezer, and thank Ina Garten and Giada DiLaurentis for their contributions.
Amrican: 125 Recipes from the Indian American Diaspora by Khushbu Shah (Courtesy of WW Norton)
The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.
I've been a big fan of your work in Food & Wine and other magazines for many years, so I was very excited to hear you had written a cookbook. And it's fantastic! I'm crazy about pizza.
What was really important to me to feature in this book was the food that came from the diaspora itself, and Indian pizza really represents that. I wanted to showcase the topping combinations that I've seen across the country and the ones that I wish existed. Unfortunately, Indian pizza currently available in restaurants can be hit or miss when it comes to flavor and topping balance, and it was important to me to represent that properly.
In an Instagram post titled “How I teach [to] “I'll make Indian food with peanut butter, biscuits and cereal, and I'll convince you that pickled jalapenos go great with Indian food! I'll show you why you need Indian pizza! Most importantly, I'll show you that Indian food doesn't have to be hard to make! It's just damn delicious.” How do you think these different elements come together in Amrikan, and how does it represent your overall culinary philosophy?
I don't really believe in a prescriptive approach to cooking. After all, all recipes are very adaptable to what you have at hand and your preferences, and I think both are very valuable, even if they differ from the author's recipes. This book is essentially about adaptation, but adaptation doesn't mean it's not “authentic” or “true” Indian food. Adaptation doesn't just apply to ingredients, but to cooking methods as well. These days, we have a lot of tools and tricks at hand that make cooking faster and easier; there's no shame in taking advantage of them.
Tell us a bit about the title. I think it's a really fun “inside joke.”
This is an instant laugh-inducing phrase for any South Asian. Amrikan is the South Asian way of saying American, which perfectly describes the approach of this book. Unfortunately, Amazon's SEO doesn't like this and will always correct the name to American and display an image of the flag.
Let me know how you made your saag paneer lasagna, it looks so tasty!
I have some pretty strong opinions about lasagna. I don't like chunks of ricotta, watery veggies, or too much cheese. I like lots of thin, firm layers, and a good béchamel sauce. So while I was trying to think of the spinach lasagna recipe of my dreams, the idea popped into my head to make a lasagna with saag paneer. I spent a few days scouring the nooks and crannies of the internet to see if anyone had already made it, but to no avail. So I made my own version of lasagna with béchamel sauce, shredded paneer, and delicious lasagna noodles.
Tell us a bit about how you “made it” in the food writing/editing world.
It's all about working hard, pitching hard and believing in yourself.
I've been reading your work in various outlets, seeing your work in “Best American Food Writing” and on Substack, and now I'm excited to be writing my debut cookbook. What has been rewarding about publishing a cookbook?
It's amazing to be able to say I've written a book. I feel so blessed to have been able to do that and to have written a book that I'm really proud of, that expresses what I wanted to express, and I hope other people can see themselves in the pages of this book.
Mango pie (Photo: Aubrey Pick)
There's something about mango pie that is irresistible to me, both in appearance and sound. The color, the simplicity, the flavors you can imagine – could I say it's the best dessert in the book?
I love mango pie, especially when you add cardamom to the crust. It's the epitome of all the “auntie tricks” in the book and comes together in no time. I also love the Candied Fennel and Jaggery Rice Krispie Treats. I wished this recipe existed, but it didn't, so I made it happen.
Deb Perelman (Smitten Kitchen) wrote that she wants to turn the whole “Amrikan” into a “Julie Julia.” Why do you think that is? Feel free to brag about it out loud.
[Laughs] That's very, very sweet of you to say it Deb, but I would love it if people actually cooked from this book, because it gives a real insight into the diversity of Indian cuisine in America today.
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Do you have a favorite recipe from this book?
It's hard to pick a favourite but besides the lasagna and rice crispy treats I really love the pumpkin baked biryani, chilli cheese toast and vagare robert.
What stands out as the event that first sparked your interest in cooking and food in general?
Food Network is the best! I would watch Ina and Giada every day after school and then do my homework.
Khushbu Shah (Photo: Alex Lau)
What was the development process like for this book?
I used to develop recipes in sprints (my previous job involved a lot of travel, so I didn't always have access to a kitchen), so I'd come up with a recipe, write it down, cook it, and tweak anything that wasn't working.
What are some good “starter” recipes in the book, especially for picky eaters or people who are unfamiliar with Indian food?
Chilli Cheese Toast is so fun and easy, and most of the ingredients are things we all know and love (bread! cheese! peppers!), but Malibu broccoli or macaroni and cheese could also be a great introduction!
How do you practice sustainability in your cooking?
Everything in my book comes with a note about the freezer. I think the freezer is one of the most underutilized tools we have. I love cooking in bulk and freezing the leftovers. It lasts for months, doesn't spoil, and avoids food waste. I also don't eat much meat and tend to cook mostly vegetarian dishes.
Do you have any particularly fond memories of cooking (or eating)?
As a teenager, I ate Indo-Chinese food from a dusty roadside Indian food stall with my cousin. Maybe the setting, and the knowledge that I probably shouldn't eat it, made it taste even better? I'd never eaten anything like it before. The noodles were so fresh and spicy that they shot through my nostrils in the best way possible.
What piece of writing are you most proud of?
Is it lame to mention this book? [Laughs]
What's your biggest tip for reducing food waste?
Again, take advantage of your freezer: even if you can't use up an ingredient, you can usually freeze it, thaw it, and use it later (think tomato paste bits, chopped onions, rice, etc.).
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