Pebble Beach Food & Wine was held from April 4th to 7th, 2024
Patrick Tregenza
After a hiatus that felt like an eternity for foodies and wine lovers alike, the announcement that Pebble Beach Food and Wine would make its grand return in 2024 evoked mixed emotions in me. On the one hand, the event was one of the nation's premier food and wine festivals, known for a level of luxury and star power that rivaled Aspen Food and Wine. As a purely food and wine person, this should have been easy to attend. However, my BIPOC identity gave me cause for pause. I previously worked at Pebble Beach Food and Wine under the previous management team prior to the company's hiatus. Most of the color I see at these events is in the wine glass, not expressed by the person holding the wine glass. As I stated previously, my concerns were not about the cooking. Maneet Chauhan and Stephanie Izard welcomed me. It wasn't about the wine. Examples of premium wine brands include Bouchesne, Laurent-Perrier, and Costa Brown, to name a few. Anyone who has visited The Inn at Spanish Bay in Pebble Beach knows that my problem was clearly not the venue. It was about the lack of attention to diversity and inclusion. How was the festival's new leadership going to deal with this? Once we learned about some key partnerships, it was clear that they were in partnership in a big way.
Partnership with The Roots Fund and A21
I was hesitant at first, even before the official lineup of talent, brands, and seminars was announced, but two things came to my mind and ultimately led to my decision to attend. The first is the involvement of A21, the marketing production company founded by CEO Brett Friedman. Friedman's company has a history of hosting festivals of this size with annual events such as Atlanta Food & Wine, South Beach Food & Wine and Whiskey of the World Tour. I have attended several of his A21 events, so I know the level at which his team operates. A21 events always feature a variety of activities, but more importantly, the diversity of people. Perhaps it's due to the demographics of A21's staff, including its leadership team. Or it could be the geographic location where the event will be held. After talking with Friedman, that became his overall strategy. All companies value green, the color of money, but can other colors do the same? A21 proves it.
This brings me to the second reason, the Roots Fund. Led by Ikimi DuBose Woodson and Carlton McCoy, their mission is to “nourish and enrich the lives of communities of color in the wine industry.” While explaining the mission may be easy, navigating how to work with and include BIPOC is a little more complex. Performative gestures are often seen as a way to tick boxes. One of my “favorite” moves of hers is hiring a chief diversity officer and patting herself on the back as if that will solve her DEI problem faster than the ink dries on her employment contract. is. Ten years later, if you look at the same company's metrics, you'll see little (if any) increase, especially at the C-suite level. That's not the case with DuBose-Woodson and McCoy. I know them and their work so well that I can tell you that they don't hang out with performative people. This means giving people in BIPOC communities the opportunity to truly prove ourselves and get rewarded for it. (They also value greenery!)
“Pebble Beach Food & Wine has been a staple in the food and beverage industry for years, and when you look at our list of chefs, brands and partners, we see a combination of inclusivity and luxury. The Wine Direction team is demonstrating that Pebble Beach Food & Wine is a hospitality game changer.'' – Ikimi DuBose Woodson, CEO of The Roots Fund.
DuBose-Woodson, McCoy, and her team were involved in nearly every aspect of the festival, a true partnership prepared by communities of color.
diverse products
Thursday
Pebble Food and Wine has brought back many of festival goers' favorite activities and seminars. Patrons who purchased the Diamond Package (his three package types: Diamond, Platinum, and Gold) had the opportunity to play 18 holes at the legendary #1 public golf course. Later that night, the festival kicked off with Coast to Coast: Opening Night presented by the James Beard Foundation. All ticket holders will sample dishes from James Beard Award winners and nominees, including Justin Sutherland of Northern Soul, Brandon Zhu of Mr. Jew, and Reams Achille of Reams California I had a chance.
Alta Adams' Keith Corbin at James Beard's opening night event
Noel Burgess
The highlight of my first night was the seminar “Nick Gislason on Flavor” hosted by FINE+RARE. For wine lovers, the name Nick Gislason may sound familiar. He is the winemaking director for Screaming Eagle and the technical director for Lopez Island Community Fireworks. I was happy to learn that he is also the co-founder of Hanabi Lager, a brewery in Napa, California. “Hanabi” means fireworks in Japanese and sheds light on the role of fireworks. Gislason explains that despite his technical training in winemaking, he takes a flavor-based approach. He could not imagine working without relying heavily on the most important tools for winemaking and winemaking: taste, sight, and smell.
Friday
“Wine View” of Pebble Beach Golf Course at Pebble Beach Lodge
Noel Burgess
My schedule on Friday was filled with events at The Inn at Spanish Bay and its sister property, The Lodge at Pebble Beach. A shuttle bus ran between facilities, but he often had to be in two places at once. Luckily, our official automotive partner was Volvo. They offered free transportation to their hybrid or all-electric SUV, so I was able to arrive on time (sort of) and experience as much as possible.
My morning started with an introduction to the following Spanish wines: Tempos Vega Sicilia and Tempranillo.
– Oremus Mandra 2020, Furmint
– Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia, Macan 2018, Rioja Tempranillo 100%
– Bodegas Pintia, Pintia 2018, Toro 100% Tempranillo
– Bodegas Arion, Arion 2019, Ribera del Duero 100% Tempranillo
– Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Valbuena 2017, Ribera del Duero 96% Tempranillo, 4% Merlot
– Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico 2013, Ribera del Duero 95% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
– Oremus Aszú, 5 puttonyos 2016, Furmint, Harsevelu, Zeta
Next up was “Dish Lunch: A Celebration and Conversation of Food, Wine, and Women” with many of my food and wine colleagues. Chefs Lindsay Autry, Manet Chauhan, Valerie Chan, and Elizabeth Faulkner gave the audience more than just the food on the plate. They spoke about their special journeys as women in the culinary world and answered questions from an appreciative crowd.
After a much-needed nap, we headed to the Beach and Tennis Club at the Lodge at Pebble Beach to attend the California Coastal Pacific Feast hosted by James Beard Award winner Jeremiah Tower. This walk-around tasting was a great experience as I met some of my favorite chefs and friends, including Dustin Vallett of The Matheson, Michael Chang of The Foray, and Matt Horn of Horn BBQ It felt like an episode of California Life. Michael Rotondo of Coastal Kitchen.
Saturday
I liked all of the spirits brands included, but I was particularly interested in “The Art and Heritage of Tequila” by Casa Obsidiana at 10am. The legendary Jean-Charles Boisset, known for his JCB collection of wines, is the co-founder of Premium His Tequila Obsidiana. It had been a few months since I'd seen him, so he made sure to tell me, “You're the only one who lets me drink tequila at this time of the morning.” Francisco Quijano, one of the 10 master tequileros in the world, explained to us his three renditions of Casa Obsidiana: Blanco, Reposado and Añejo. He honestly had to drink about 3 bottles of Icelandic glacier water to get through the day. Next year, we'll make his T-shirts that say “Tequila at Ten” for everyone who attends.
Pebble Beach Food & Wine Tasting Pavilion
Patrick Tregenza
We've said it before, but what's a food and wine festival without a grand tasting? The Tasting Pavilion is Pebble Beach Food & Wine's signature event. On his two days, Saturday and Sunday, the festival attracts everyone who works or participates. Chefs, winemakers, spirits, special activations, and music all come together in one place to enchant connoisseurs. If you can't make it to any other events during the four-day event, this is your chance to get a taste of it, literally and figuratively. I stayed for about 90 minutes, including time to work on my summer color in the VIP cabana before heading back.
The burger, bourbon, and Bordeaux happy hour was held at a fire pit in the backyard of the Inn at Spanish Bay. With food from John Tesar, David Rose, Alvin Cailan, Leonard Botero IV, and Anna Marie Bayonito, it took some effort to avoid overeating before dinner. But of course, I saw Alta Adams' Keith Corbin serving brisket with his best Kool-Aid smile, so there's a good chance I ate too much. In my defense, I had Bourbon and Bordeaux so I had to try both of his dishes separately.
After a quick nap, we headed out for dinner. I'm a big fan of his Barbuto in New York, so I chose Quality Italian Dinner: A Feast with a Culinary Master hosted by Jonathan Waxman. Chefs Giorgio Rapicavoli, Angela Tamra and James Trees, along with mixologist Jason Asher, created a five-course dinner that made guests feel like they were in Italy. Also, a big thank you to Hue Association Sommelier of the Year Cassandra Felix and Beverage Director Molly Brooks. By evening I would have been able to set my watch. Everything worked like clockwork!
I ended the night with the official After Hours: Exclusive Late Night Event hosted by Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits. Enjoying Southern G family cocktails, spirits and wines while reflecting on the day with friends and colleagues was the perfect accompaniment to end the day.
Sunday
Sunday Jazz Brunch Food & Wine at Pebble Beach
Noel Burgess
Last day before heading home along the coast. We ended with Rogerio Garcia of Oro in Napa Valley, a Michelin-starred chef from the Lodge at Pebble Beach's Fairway 1 complex. Garcia was hosting “To the South, With Love: A Southern Jazz Brunch.” Patrons enjoyed homemade food prepared by Peter Armerino, Rogelio Garcia, Angela Herrera, Jeffrey Jake, Barb Batiste and Michael Chang while listening to live jazz music by the Steve Lackey Trio.
verdict
Looking back at this year's Pebble Beach Food and Wine, the diversity observed didn't just enhance the event, it redefined it. It elevated an honorable occasion to a cultural festival and demonstrated the profound impact of inclusion. The flavors were more vibrant, the conversations deeper, and the overall experience much richer. Diversity, it turns out, was the secret ingredient that made this year's gathering truly amazing. I hope this method continues to gain acceptance.
Pebble Beach Food and Wine will be held April 10-13, 2025.