By Ilana van der Merwe, May 11, 2024—
The annual Met Gala concludes with a renewed consumption of high fashion media coverage in daily news. The theme of this year's Metropolitan Museum of Art's featured exhibit is “Sleeping Beauty: The Awakening of Fashion,” featuring delicate historical artifacts that are too fragile to be worn. Due to this, Anna Wintour and her co-chairs announced the dress code “Garden of Time”. For context, “The Garden of Time” is a fictional short story written by JG Ballard that features a magical diamond flower that reverses time when picked. The imagery in this story is wonderfully elegant and sumptuous, while the story's allegory encapsulates a commentary on the cycles of time. The transience of death and life.
Chances are, like me, you were watching the free live stream of the event in your pajamas on a couch somewhere. The Pajama Critic likes to involve himself in the escapism offered by the untouchable world of celebrities, galas, and high fashion. We value fashion as much as comfortable clothing. Regardless of our nature, we still have the right to analyze and form our own opinion on his work presented before the world on May 6, 2024.
As a new pajama critic, it's important to understand the difference between this event's theme and dress code. It's very simple. The theme provides an overview of the exhibition, and the dress code guides those attending the exhibition's grand opening, the Met Gala. With this in mind, you can form an opinion about the design of the evening. Criticizing these designs can be very complicated. Perhaps the design makes a statement, but that's not what the dress code is intended for. So is it worthy of praise? Viewers may also witness designs that implement a dress code while failing to adequately express the artistic vision. So how does the design hold up? Here's how different looks succeed in executing the intended artistic vision, whether following or ignoring the Met Gala dress code Here are some.
adjustments and deficiencies
Photo credit: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images
In this category you will find designs that are relevant to the theme, without necessarily achieving a unique creative interpretation or appeal. Find Kylie Jenner here. Her look, designed by Oscar de la Renta, was created to bring to life the ending of Ballard's short story. The use of strategic boning on the bodice of this dress revealed an overtly conical bust and train with an unconcealed seam line along the hips of her dress. The double satin fabric of the dress looks like a carved stone, similar to the ending of the story where the main character and his wife are turned into statues. While this look upheld the dress code, it didn't outshine Jenner's previous Met Gala looks. Perhaps the symbolism of this dress would be conveyed even more if it worked more harmoniously with the model's body type. The problem with dresses is not that they are irregularly shaped, but that they are too fixed in shape. It looks like the dress is wearing Jenner, not the other way around.
Alignment
Photo by Cindy Ord/Getty Images
This category introduces designs that prioritize expressing this year's theme without leaving too much of an impression on the viewer. Mindy Kaling's Gaurav Gupta-designed dress was breathtaking not only in color but also in silhouette. Fine rhinestone detailing across the midriff and extension of the dress resembled the magic drops depicted in Ballard's short stories. The styling of Karin's makeup and the simplicity of her hair and jewelry let the dress speak for itself. Considering all this, it didn't take long for Karin to be overshadowed by other celebrities coming up the stairs. Although this night is a celebration of the arts, there is certainly some competition, especially when it comes to media and paparazzi attention.
cooperation and prosperity
Photo by Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
Respecting the dress code while getting the audience excited about the look is a skill only the most creative designers can master. For me, the most extraordinary look of the night was actress Elle Fanning, who played Aurora in Disney's 2014 and 2019 live-action Maleficent movies. I believe a quote from Ballard's short story was used as inspiration for this style.
“As the last light fades, the countess raises her palms to the sky as if releasing an invisible bird, musters up her last courage to grasp her husband's hand, and smiles brightly like a faded flower. ” read the quote.
The design of the dress was meticulously crafted by designer Balmain to convey an atmosphere of magic and fantasy. Made by soaking organza fabric in resin, which originates from China and is made from an intricate weaving system, the sheerness and sparkle of the dress evokes the fictional poetic nature of the melting diamond flowers in the short story. It made the dress shine exactly like the description. More intentionally, the birds that appear to pour this cascading gown over Fanning's shoulders look as if Balmain was hoping to transform Fanning into the character of the Countess herself. This dress is timeless and we wouldn't be surprised if it was displayed alongside the Met Gala at an upcoming exhibition.
ignore and fail
Photo credit: Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images
A disregard for the night's theme and blatantly bland or unflattering attire is usually enough to earn a condescending comment from Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. For me, the one that comes to mind is her Doja Cat. After sparking controversy last year for vaping on the carpet despite strict regulations against e-cigarettes, Doja Cat attended the 2024 Met Gala in an even more ignorant manner. She wore a water-soaked floor-length white T-shirt designed by Gram Gvasalia, and Doja Cat, similarly made up, lay on the carpet like a dirty towel between her silk sheets. It was noticeable. she asked, and Doja Cat teased that her t-shirt was made of cotton, and that cotton was a flower. Personally, just because a design is slightly related to florals doesn't necessarily mean the outfit will fit into the dress code, much less the size or format of the event. After this stint, I'm curious to see if Wintour will have the courage to open the door for Doja Cat from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in the future, especially if her appearance requires a cleaning crew to clean up after her. I think I would like to.
ignore
Photo by: Taylor Hill/Getty Images
Not meeting the dress code doesn't necessarily mean it's poorly designed, even though it may be looked down upon by some. You can deviate from the gala dress code and still create great pieces at the same time. In this category, we nominate pop icon Sabrina Carpenter. Some critics claim that the dress was like a reimagined futuristic Cinderella dress, which was in keeping with the theme. This is why I think this design did not fit the dress code. As mentioned above, theme and dress code are two different concepts for her. Although we recommend using the exhibition theme as a backdrop for designs that meet the dress code, you should not use the theme alone to draw inspiration for these pieces. This dress was also designed by de la Renta, but it depends on who you ask. The cloud-like skirt of this dress can be described by some as seductive and sophisticated. Some people think it reminds them of chewing gum. Due to polarizing opinions on this gown, it ultimately found its way to neutral ground online. Perhaps if the dress was closer to the dress code, more people would talk about it rather than the fact that Carpenter was making her first red carpet debut alongside Barry Keoghan at the event.
ignore and thrive
Photo by Theo Wargo/GA/The Hollywood Reporter, Getty Images
This certainly falls into the most controversial category. Critics often discredit a design on a metropolitan staircase, no matter how great, if it doesn't follow the theme. However, I believe that a tasteful and pioneering look is worth admiring, even if it doesn't follow the theme. Combining the typically conservative nature of traditional Gothic art with boudoir fashion, Dua's Lippa costume, designed by Marc Jacobs, was memorable to say the least. This look had little to do with a dress code, but I feel like my freedom paid off. The artistic integrity found in each layer of this look results in an elaborate yet elegant design. It's not often that you can combine a feather boa with an underbust corset to achieve an elegant vision, but Marc Jacobs executed it perfectly.
Now you have all the tools to form your own opinion as a pajama critic. A recorded livestream of the Met Gala can be viewed on Vogue. Also, be sure to find out about the up-and-coming designers who could steal the show at the 2025 Met Gala.
This article is part of the Opinions section and does not necessarily reflect the views of the Gauntlet Editorial Board.
