I'm happy to report that the Canadian side of Niagara in Ontario exceeded my expectations – and in some surprising ways.
When James Derbyshire, the bus driver on our Niagara-bound bus, said, “I was born and raised here and I played an extra in the Superman movies. It was a big thing here,” it instantly brought back memories of my childhood in Niagara.
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He is also a big fan of the new BBC TV series “Rebus” and Scotland.
“We get a lot of Scottish visitors to Niagara and we feel an instant kinship with them because we have a common history. No one is disappointed in Niagara Falls; every season is different and just as special.”
From our perfectly located room at the Hilton Niagara Falls, we were treated to our first glimpse of Niagara Falls. To our surprise, falls are plural — three in fact! Directly ahead is the rocky American cascade; to our right, the Canadian Horseshoe Falls tumbles swiftly, its roar easily heard from our 38th-floor window; Bridal Veil Falls rumbles nearby, too.
Breakfast at the hotel is excellent – arrive early and request a window seat with a view of the falls from the 33rd floor – truly a sight to behold.
View Niagara Falls through binoculars (Photo: Robin McKelvie)
Who knew you could enjoy Niagara Falls for free? Countless observation decks compete to maximize the wow factor. The boulevard stretches along the Niagara River that separates the two countries. There's no dull walk here, as the falls constantly stimulate the senses.
The roar. The mesmerizing volume of water. The rising mist that sometimes felt like a Scottish summer shower.
A boat trip is the traditional way to really experience Niagara Falls. I took the Niagara City Cruise. The free “waterproof” ponchos felt ominous. Predictably, we started to get wet at the American Falls. Passengers screamed and cheered, while cormorants and seagulls lazily waded by, wondering what all the fuss was about. Niagara Falls is a natural oasis, even though it's crowded with tourists.
As I continued to walk further into the Horseshoe Falls, the mist turned to rain, and as the water started to blow like a gale, and the falls started to rage, my flimsy poncho quickly became soaked that I was forced to turn away. I couldn't see a thing.
And somehow, we made it through the mayhem and made it right next to the falls, a sublime moment when the wall of cascading water cleared to reveal blue sky. Wow. My inner child is ecstatic.
You could do just that, but in Ontario they don't do things by halves. Next up is the Journey Behind the Falls tour, a popular option that involves donning another poncho and descending deep into the falls.
Experience a bit of Blackpool, Canada with a visit to the Clifton Hill Complex (Photo: Robin McKelvie)
After passing through a narrow, damp tunnel, a peephole appears before you, and the highlight is emerging into a two-storey observation gallery. You're already wet, but that doesn't matter as the views and memories just keep on coming.
We also did the Wild Water Walk, a boardwalk that follows the upper reaches of the Niagara River. We also had the option of a water zip line that dropped 2,200 feet to the base of the Horseshoe Falls, or a Whirlpool Aero Car that soared 3,500 feet above the Niagara River. At night, there's a Blackpool-style amusement park around Clifton Hill that's great fun with cheap food, arcades, rollercoasters and rides. My younger self would have felt like he was in heaven.
The experiences continue to grow and grow. A new experience is the nighttime option at the old hydroelectric power station.
It feels brave to ride the rugged lift down what appears to be a mine shaft. A huge tunnel ahead beckons me further with lounge dance music and a funky multi-coloured light show. Information boards explain how the tunnel was built. “Some of the engineers were Scottish,” the lift attendant tells me. Then I emerge at another observation deck for another unique view of Niagara Falls. For a moment I think I've had enough, but no, another view unfolds.
And finally, the view from the Table Rock House Restaurant, where we enjoyed a pint of local beer. Niagara also has great wine, and of course, a view of Niagara Falls.
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We had the Ontario pork belly, sausage and filet mignon seasoned with Ontario cider and maple syrup – delicious, surprising and in no way disappointing – just like on the Canadian side of Niagara Falls.
It's just as fun as when I was a kid.
For more information, see Destination Ontario (www.destinationontario.com). Robin flew with Canadian airline Transat (www.airtransat.com), which has a flight time of just 6-7 hours from Glasgow to Toronto. Niagara is an easy train ride south.