By David Dickstein Southern California News Group
“Welcome to Paradise!”
Experience tells seasoned warm-climate travelers that it's best not to take this greeting too seriously if you encounter it at a tropical resort: more than once, heat-seeking vacationers have been burned not by the sun's rays, but by these seemingly kind words.
For example, the five-star Jamaican resort Goldeneye was a “paradise” where I woke up to blood-stained sheets despite the protection of mosquito nets and copious amounts of bug spray. Las Brisas Acapulco is a luxury hotel nicknamed “The Pink and White Paradise,” but the only color I saw was red as a noisy service cart drove past my room all night. A drive-by shooting across the street capped off a less-than-utopian stay.
If I received a nickel, or even a foreign nickel, for every tropical destination that failed to live up to its paradise-like hype, it would amount to a substantial sum and would provide fodder for a tell-all travel book. But life is short and we need a more positive attitude in this troubled world, so let's not dwell on places that inadvertently blend heaven and hell. Instead, we should aim our travel binoculars at corners of the world that rarely disappoint.
A Mexican couple celebrates their fifth wedding anniversary at Motu. (Photo: David Dickstein)
We're talking about French Polynesia, in the heart of the serene South Pacific. Comprised of five archipelagos and 118 islands, nearly half of which are uninhabited, this magical place is a popular setting for screensaver graphics and wall calendars. It's literally the model of the quintessential tropical paradise that many of us imagine.
Who hasn't dreamed of chilling out on a white sandy beach, next to palm trees swaying in the breeze, and cooling off with a fruity libation? This is the place where that dream becomes a reality. And the views of crystal clear turquoise waters surrounded by lush green mountains are just dreamy. Even better, unlike many equatorial vacation destinations, French Polynesia has been endorsed by the U.S. Department of State with a Level 1 travel advisory for safety.
A private floating island bar redefines “watering hole.” (Photo: David Dickstein)
Air Tahiti Nui, American, Delta, French Bee, Hawaiian and United all fly between Tahiti and Los Angeles or San Francisco, with flight times of at least eight hours. It's not a short trip, and it's not a cheap one either, costing more than $1,000 round trip, but the ROI is a joie de vivre-filled, French-accented dream vacation.
Blessed with unparalleled beauty, unique culture, friendly people and alluring seclusion, French Polynesia is a favorite destination for honeymooners, anniversary celebraters and many others looking to indulge in a sexy destination somewhere outside of South Florida, Hawaii, Costa Rica or the Caribbean.
The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort is known for its overwater villas and spectacular views. (Photo by David Dickstein)
According to French Polynesia's tourism authority (tahititourisme.com), 80% of visitors stay in resorts, many in the luxurious overwater bungalows that are synonymous with the region. The pinnacle of luxury is undoubtedly the St. Regis Bora Bora Resort (www.stregisborabora.com), where you can view marine life through a glass-bottom floor from inside your luxury hut and dive into an aquamarine lagoon from a private outdoor platform, with perfect views of the iconic Mount Otemanu.
Making a full-service, five-star resort your vacation base sounds like paradise, and most travelers seem to agree. But if you want to explore other islands to experience Tahitian and French culture from a different angle, know that it can be a hassle. Flights and ferries are limited to certain islands and days of the week, so even the most resourceful hotel concierge might try to dissuade guests from this well-intentioned but impractical idea.
The luxurious Paul Gauguin can accommodate 332 passengers and was built specifically for Polynesian waters. (Photo: David Dickstein)
If a few days on one property is enough to make you catch “island fever,” a cruise might be your best ticket to paradise. The easiest way to visit multiple islands in a vast destination roughly the size of Europe is by boat. For example, on a typical 7-10 day trip around the Society Islands, the ship calls at Moorea, Tahaa, Raiatea, Huahine, and of course Bora Bora before returning to Tahiti. Paul Gauguin, Windstar, and Silversea are offering the most round trips on this itinerary over the coming year, although port counts may vary. Of particular note are cruises that stop overnight in Bora Bora.
One of the benefits of a cruise is that you can visit many places and only have to unpack your luggage once. But when you get the chance to disembark and spend a night in an overwater villa, dealing with your luggage again is a welcome inconvenience. On a recent week-long voyage aboard the 332-passenger Paul Gauguin to the Society Islands and Tahiti, at least two guests gave up their spacious butler-equipped veranda rooms for an Overwater Deluxe Villa at the St. Regis, Bora Bora's only Forbes Five-Star resort. Rates for this popular category start at $1,530 per night. By comparison, the InterContinental Tahiti and Hilton Tahiti reported weekday availability in July, with rates starting at $330 and $370, respectively, but with significantly less wow factor.
Selling points of the St. Regis include safe snorkeling in a beautiful lagoonarium home to more than 120 species of fish, thoughtful adult-only spaces, a superb spa, themed dining events most nights at one of six restaurants and bars (Polynesian evenings, like Wednesday luaus, are high-energy affairs), and recreational services, including an assigned bicycle for every guest.
The farewell party for the Paul Gauguin was bittersweet for guests and crew. (Photo: David Dickstein)
Back on board the Paul Gauguin (www.pgcruises.com), the good life continues. With a very good crew to passenger ratio of 1:1.5, service on the Paul Gauguin is solid – perhaps the most considerate and friendly service this sailor writer has experienced. On the second night before our final day, several of the crew members showed off their other talents in a fun and entertaining crew show.
A Polynesian revue captivates guests aboard the Paul Gauguin. (Photo: David Dickstein)
On other nights, the understated beauty of the 314-seat Grand Salon will feature Polynesian culture through song and dance by some incredible local artists. Late-night entertainment is often weak on smaller ships, but not on this ship. The Santa Rosa Band and pianist/singer Jerry Lomosso are two well-deserved multi-talented artists from the Philippines who recently signed contract extensions.
Passengers of the Paul Gauguin enjoy a day on a private islet. (Photo: David Dickstein)
Onboard entertainment, an aft marina for water sports, and most organized activities are included in the cruise fare, which can be booked for as low as $5,000 for double occupancy on a seven-day voyage. Not included in the price are treatments at the well-maintained Algotherm Spa and land tours, which is common even on luxury category cruises. Looking at some of the tours, the ATV tour in Huahine is $279 per vehicle (single or double), but the scenery along the road and off-road routes is priceless. The “Coral Garden Drift Snorkeling” ($120 in Raiatea, $125 in Taha'a) takes swimmers to one of the best spots in the world. The “WaveRunner Adventure” in Moorea ($239 per vehicle, single or double) includes a pit stop at a small island for a thrilling encounter with rays.
A dessert of cappuccino mousse concludes this lovely dinner at L'Etoile. (Photo: David Dickstein)
On recent cruises, the foodie adventure was mostly a success: Steak, shellfish, lamb and vegetables featured on the menu are the kind of high-quality, excellent cuisine that France-based Ponant, the company that acquired the ship in 2019, is known for. Cheese night in L'Etoile restaurant featured a selection of 15 precious French cheeses, all perfectly seasoned.
Like the food, nearly everything on the Paul Gauguin is easily digested. The hull architecture is also specifically designed for smooth sailing in Polynesian waters. At the risk of issuing a nerd alert, we'll explain why: A 17-foot draft allows the ship to approach shallow lagoons and isolated islands, maximizing port time.
As for the parts of the ship you can actually see, recent renovations have given the 27-year-old ship a younger, more refined appearance than when I boarded it in 2018. I wish the spa's $210 “Deep Regenerating Sun Care” treatment had produced similar results for me.
Dickstein is a freelance writer for the Southern California News Group.
